After offering to throw money at my ISP to get them to put internet in the shop, and being told it was un-possible, I decided to take matters into my own hands.
I had a bunch (several hundred yards) of Cat5 cable we used for fast draw, and the shop is only 70 feet from the house. I bought a router and ran a test line from the modem in the house to the router in the shop. A few minutes of setup, and I was connected.
Now, I have to get some Cat5E, some pvc for conduit, and rent a trencher. The concept works, and now I have to make it more eye-pleasing, rather than a bare cable run across the grass.
I now have internet access in the shop, and my ISP can blow soap bubbles out their ass.
Unpossible,, and you went and got it done. Good goin!
ReplyDeleteI needed a garage door to go up another coupla feet before it hit the corner in the rails and went horizontal. Went to the local shop where they install them, told them what I wanted and was told
Unpossible. I scrounged enough track from the trash,bought cable from Lowes,went home and, like you, miraculously accomplished the
Unpossible.
Congrats. Now when I come by, I will be able to get cell calls in your shop.
ReplyDeleteTermite
From someone with small experience...
ReplyDelete1" i.d. would be nice at minimum
just as easy to pull two as one
at worst, you can use other one as a pull string
may want to upgrade cable sometime, or run coax
regardless how sealed, will prolly still get water inside
run conduit up to sealed NEMA boxes on outside
penetrate will thru back of box to another box inside
caulk, caulk, caulk openings
pardon the shouting USE SWEEPING TURNS NOT RIGHT ANGLES!
best, buy a mini-rack for your network switch, etc.
alt., get a separate shelf to separate it from other shop items
surge protection! both AC wiring and cable
UPS for gear in shop would be nice
test everything inside the house before moving it to shop
removes cable run, patch cables out of troubleshooting equation
use good cat 5 connectors both ends
make sure wired same both ends, 258A or B
...and other things i haven't thought of since i can't see your install
Adding to Alan's comment above:
ReplyDeleteTrench is expensive, PVC is cheap. Put two conduits in the trench. Cap the spare.
Go one size larger on whatever PVC conduit you think you need. Alan recommended 1", go 1.25", 1.5" would not be unreasonable.
Schedule 80 - the gray stuff used for underground electric - is thicker wall than Schedule 40 used for pressurized water. Avoid the temptation to use the much cheaper thin-wall "sprinkler pipe." The difference is "survival of one accidental shovel strike" versus "zero tolerance for accidental shovel strike."
If using machine for trench, go AT LEAST 1 ft deeper than planned, 2 ft is not unreasonable. Lay 4" of sand in the bottom of the trench for conduit to sit on (helps keep migrating rocks away, but in your area rock might not be the problem it is elsewhere), 6-8" would not be unreasonable, esp if going 2- 2.5 ft deeper. The first 12" above conduit should be sand as a "future digging alert layer."
A run of tracer wire (aka "buried stuff locating buzz wire") goes in the upper sand layer close above the conduit. Use REAL Tracer Wire, not "I have some of this wire on hand;" (REAL Tracer Wire is plastic coated and steel-wrapped copper to resist damage, underground rot). Extra points for putting in 2 runs. Form underground loops at each end in the spare, seal wire ends WELL.
Plan the best route for the trench & conduit; often "shortest" is not "bestest." As Alan said "curves, not elbows" if there's ANY direction change. Someday you - or someone else - may want to pull a replacement (or second) cable.
Contact 811 for marking underground utilites well before even buying a shovel. The marking is guaranteed for 30 days.
Make a map of where the conduit is, using a copy of an existing survey plat makes it easy. Mark entrance, exit points, compass headings, foot/inch measurements, conduit depths. Someday knowing EXACTLY where the conduit is, what it is, and exactly how deep, will be important.
Alberto
Adding to Alan's comment above:
ReplyDeleteTrench is expensive, PVC is cheap. Put two conduits in the trench. Cap the spare.
Go one size larger on whatever PVC conduit you think you need. Alan recommended 1", go 1.25", 1.5" would not be unreasonable.
Schedule 80 - the gray stuff used for underground electric - is thicker wall than Schedule 40 used for pressurized water. Avoid the temptation to use the much cheaper thin-wall "sprinkler pipe." The difference is "survival of one accidental shovel strike" versus "zero tolerance for accidental shovel strike."
If using machine for trench, go AT LEAST 1 ft deeper than planned, 2 ft is not unreasonable. Lay 4" of sand in the bottom of the trench for conduit to sit on (helps keep migrating rocks away, but in your area rock might not be the problem it is elsewhere), 6-8" would not be unreasonable, esp if going 2- 2.5 ft deeper. The first 12" above conduit should be sand as a "future digging alert layer."
A run of tracer wire (aka "buried stuff locating buzz wire") goes in the upper sand layer close above the conduit. Use REAL Tracer Wire, not "I have some of this wire on hand;" (REAL Tracer Wire is plastic coated and steel-wrapped copper to resist damage, underground rot). Extra points for putting in 2 runs. Form underground loops at each end in the spare, seal wire ends WELL.
Plan the best route for the trench & conduit; often "shortest" is not "bestest." As Alan said "curves, not elbows" if there's ANY direction change. Someday you - or someone else - may want to pull a replacement (or second) cable.
Contact 811 for marking underground utilites well before even buying a shovel. The marking is guaranteed for 30 days.
Make a map of where the conduit is, using a copy of an existing survey plat makes it easy. Mark entrance, exit points, compass headings, foot/inch measurements, conduit depths. Someday knowing EXACTLY where the conduit is, what it is, and exactly how deep, will be important.
When putting a router in the shop, put it inside a cabinet or otherwise cover it to keep dirt and dust off it - they kill electronics faster than anything else.
ReplyDeleteA link to a man named Joe that is running an underground internet line. This guy does a lot of sweat labor. I am posting anonymous, my name is Jim.
ReplyDeletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrVpmTJqi0Y